I would like to introduce you to a remarkable region of India, rich in history and culture, which I have known for over three decades, and to which I returned repeatedly. Through Teesta Heritage, I hope to share its stories and character with a wider audience.

The Eastern Himalayas of India stretch between Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet, rising dramatically from the humid plains of Bengal to alpine passes more than 4,000 metres above sea level. In a short distance the landscape move from subtropical forest to snow-clad mountain peaks, creating one of the most diverse regions in Asia for culture, history and biodiversity.

You may have heard of Darjeeling’s tea gardens, the Himalayan Railway, the former Kingdom of Sikkim, or the spectacular views of Kanchenjunga. Some may know of the region’s deep connections with Tibetan Buddhism. Yet beyond these familiar images lies a remarkable story, still largely unknown outside the region itself.

Before we even get to the history, however, this is simply a beautiful place. Its high mountains, deep valleys, forests, rivers and terraced hillsides provide astonishing landscapes. Whether you are interested in heritage, wildlife, photography, walking, discovering local crafts and products, or spirituality, the Eastern Himalayas offer something unique.

My own connection with the region began in the early 1990s, working as a volunteer teacher in Kalimpong. Since then I have returned many times, both to teach and to explore. Everywhere I have travelled, I have encountered generous and welcoming people eager to share stories over a cup of chai.

Those stories have revealed a region with an extraordinary past. They speak of the old trade route between Lhasa and Kalimpong, where mule caravans once carried wool, salt, and borax from Tibet and India, returning with spices and Western manufactured items. They tell of the traditions of the indigenous Lepcha people, and of the Bhutia, Limbu and Nepali communities, each with their own distinctive languages, customs, architecture and faith traditions.

They also reveal a place shaped by wider historical forces: 19th-century wars between Britain, Nepal and Bhutan; Scottish, Scandinavian and Catholic missionaries who pioneered schools, hospitals and industries; the British expeditions into Tibet; and the arrival of Tibetan refugees fleeing political upheaval in the twentieth century.

Few visitors realise, for example, that the Dalai Lama found temporary sanctuary in Darjeeling and Kalimpong after his flight from Tibet in 1910 – or that George Mallory and other Everest pioneers rested at Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Pedong on their way towards the world’s highest mountain.

One personal connection is the story of my great-great-great-aunt, Mary Scott, who served as a pioneering missionary in the region from 1905 to 1953. I have recently co-authored a paper on her work, published in the Bulletin of Tibetology (page 63), exploring her longstanding friendship with Tashi Namgyal, the 11th Chogyal of Sikkim.

Today, traces of these overlapping histories are still visible everywhere. They can be found in old monasteries and churches, in bazaars and marketplaces, in forgotten forts, ancient footpaths, colonial buildings and the memories of local communities.

Despite its richness, the Eastern Himalayas remain far less familiar to Western travellers than Rajasthan, Kerala, Goa or even the better-known Western Himalayas. This is perhaps partly because the region lacks the direct international connections enjoyed by India’s most famous tourist destinations. Yet for many, that relative obscurity is precisely part of its appeal.

This is why Teesta Heritage exists. We aim to share the remarkable history, culture, landscapes and communities of the Eastern Himalayas with a wider audience – independent travel design and consultancy, books, guide material, and talks.

In future posts, we’ll explore some of the people, places, trade routes, monasteries, missions and forgotten stories that make the Eastern Himalayas one of the most fascinating corners of Asia.

We hope you’ll join us on the journey.

Interested in a pilot tour?

We are looking for a small number of participants to join a pilot tour in March or April 2027. The trial will be offered at cost price, giving participants the chance to experience this distinctive heritage-focused journey while helping us refine it for future travellers.

If you would like to receive the full sample itinerary or discuss the opportunity, please contact us at info@teestaheritage.com and include a telephone number.

Your feedback on the itinerary alone would be welcome.